One of Costa Rica’s biggest exports is tourism, and Tamarindo is nothing if not a tourist town. Its small downtown area is bursting with restaurants, cafes, smoothie stands, souvenir shops, and tour companies. Due to the high expatriate population and influx of tourists, you won’t find the traditional Costa Rican food and experience that you would further inland, but that doesn’t mean the eats are mediocre by any stretch. Here are a few places I tried and loved while I was in town.
Cafe Tico
I relied heavily on Cafe Tico to keep me both caffeinated and informed about the town. Lorena, my new favorite barista, gave me the scoop on the economic development of Tamarindo and the many expatriates who now call it home while serving up some delicious blended espresso beverages. I spent at least an hour one afternoon practicing my Spanish, drinking coffee, and asking her questions about the people, tourists, and food scene in Tamarindo. I’ll be sure to use this strategy — befriending a good barista in the know — in my future travels as well. I highly recommend it.
Gallo Fino
Marketed as a traditional Costa Rican establishment, this open air restaurant in town is actually owned by the hotel that dominates much of Tamarindo, the Hotel Tamarindo Diria, and is priced to match. The decor is pleasant, but it’s the big rotisserie oven filled with whole chickens near the entrance that really makes this place stand out and smell amazing. I ordered a conservatively priced arroz con pollo. It was the best I’ve had, likely due to the smoky taste of the fresh shredded rotisserie chicken. Gallo Fino also offers whole and half chickens for take out, and I saw many locals and expats picking up whole chickens to go during my meal.
El Pescador
This place wins best view on this list, by a long shot. It’s right on the beach and is perfect for watching the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. True to its name, El Pescador, or The Fisherman, offers a menu full of seafood. It’s owned by Canadian expatriates, and the staff is incredibly friendly and accommodating.
Portofino
I generally try to avoid pizza while on vacation and try to take in as much local food as possible. I didn’t feel too guilty about getting pizza at Portofino though, because the cooks clearly knew what they were doing. There are quite a number of Italian expats in Tamarindo, so if you eat at an Italian restaurant, it’s likely owned by an actual Italian. The wood fired brick oven pizzas were delicious, with the perfect amount of charring on the crust. We were drawn in by the 2 for 1 happy hour sign and were surprised to learn that in Costa Rica, 2 for 1 means just that — the server brought us each two drinks.
Seasons by Shlomy
I’d read all about this place and was anxious to try it. It’s in the hills behind the main part of town, and it took some searching to find El Arco Iris, the adjoining hotel. When we did find it, we discovered that it’s only open from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Unfortunately, we showed up too early and weren’t able to return while it was open. I had been salivating at the prospect of trying Shlomy’s homemade Toblerone for dessert.
Comida Rapida Doña Rosa
Doña Rosa has been serving the most traditional Costa Rican grub out of the back of her station wagon on the streets of Tamarindo for ten years! She serves the typical casado, a platter with arroz con pollo, black beans, fried plantains, and other traditional fare. This was by far the most food we were served in Tamarindo for the least amount of money. Doña Rosa told me that she and her daughter make the food every morning in Cartegena, about a half hour drive from Tamarindo.
Patagonia
This Argentinean-inspired restaurant is situated almost in the middle of town. It’s hard to miss. Their specialty was obviously steak, but I had heard Patagonia had amazing $2.50 empanadas. I stopped in for a snack one afternoon. The chicken empanada was good, but the dessert I ordered was the best thing I had all week: dulce de leche-filled crepes with fresh cream.
Even though traditional Costa Rican food was scarce, Tamarindo is full of other delicious options. It’s a town made largely by tourists and expatriates for tourists and expatriates. Don’t be afraid to start a conversation or ask for recommendations — I learned a lot and met some amazing people doing just that!
- Photography: Lisa Yoder
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